Desperado Bagels makes the best bagel in San Diego, and it is also the hardest
one to get your hands on. The bakery on Hancock Street bakes Sunday morning and
sells until it is gone. The other six days you go to a coffee counter on Cass
Street in Pacific Beach that carries them, and you take what is in the case.
Eleven shops, and they are not making the same thing. There is a sourdough bagel
in Encinitas with a tang loud enough to start an argument, a Montreal-style one
in North Park that comes out sweeter and denser with rosemary and sea salt on
top, a La Jolla shop that sends bagels out hot and expects you to dip them
instead of filling them, a vegan delicatessen on El Cajon Boulevard doing carrot
lox, and counters in Oceanside and El Cajon that open at 6 or 7 and just hand
you a warm one with cream cheese for a few dollars.
Most of these places bake a set amount and then stop. Show up in the first hours
and you get your pick of the board; show up near closing and you take whatever
is left, which is usually the flavor nobody wanted.
Order the bagel plain the first time — before the schmear, before the egg and
cheese. That is the only way to find out which of these is your shop.
For the rest of the morning, use our breakfast and brunch
guide, and for a broader pastry
counter compare the best bakeries in San
Diego. If the coffee matters as much as the
bread, start with the best coffee shops in San
Diego. North Park readers can pair
Nomad and Marigold with the North Park neighborhood
guide, and North County readers can plan around our
Oceanside guide.