Juniper & Ivy
Our pickIn March 2014, owner Michael Rosen opened Juniper & Ivy in an old abandoned warehouse on the northern edge of Little Italy, gave it a big open kitchen, and brought in Richard Blais, the Top Chef All-Stars winner, as the opening chef. Executive Chef Alex Penkin runs the kitchen on Kettner Boulevard today, and the idea behind the menu hasn't budged. It changes daily, built around what the restaurant's farmer and fishermen friends bring in each morning.
That's why it's the best restaurant in Little Italy. The restaurant says today's menu is "nearly unrecognizable" from opening night, or even from last week, so every dinner is a snapshot of right now. The meal moves in stages, from raw to pasta to whole fish. In September, the raw side of the menu had SD Tuna Crudo in white soy vinaigrette with stone fruit, serrano and breakfast radish, and a Spicy Tuna Handroll with sesame leaf, sriracha aioli, cucumber and furikake. The pastas included Cacao Pappardelle with braised Colorado lamb and crème fraîche and a Linguini Cacciucco with venus clams, calamari, roasted tomato and fennel, and the bigger plates ran to a Whole Fried Seabass with banchan and ssamjang. Some of those will have rotated off by the time you book. That's how it's meant to work.
The praise follows that range: raw seafood, hand rolls, pasta, whole fish, and a kitchen that covers a lot of ground in a single night. The room gives you choices, too. There's a bar, a main dining room, a covered patio and semi-private dining cubes, plus a chef's counter that looks straight into the kitchen. Ask for the counter if you like watching the work. Small celebrations can book the 14-seat Chef's Table. The wine list comes with a sommelier team, and the bar has a little sister concept of its own, called Juni.
It has the résumé to match, with a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2019 and a spot on OpenTable's list of the Best Restaurants in America for a Big Night Out. Book ahead and go in flexible. Order one raw dish, then ask what whole fish came in that night before anybody gets attached to a dish name.




