GONZO! makes the best ramen in San Diego County, and the Gonzo Black is the
proof: a tonkotsu simmered down until it is dense, then run through with black
garlic until the whole thing turns darker and heavier than the bowl you thought
you ordered. It comes out of a compact room in Carlsbad Village, which is not
where anyone expects to find the best ramen in the county.
The rest clusters in Kearny Mesa and along Convoy, which is where San Diego
ramen actually lives — suites in strip malls, kitchens that shut down for three
hours every afternoon, small rooms with a line outside them. There is also a
food-court counter, a mall restaurant in University City, and a Hillcrest room
you can reach without getting on a freeway.
The styles really do diverge. Heavy pork tonkotsu at one address, a clear shoyu
at another, chicken broth at a third, and a Hokkaido shio at a fourth that
cares about almost nothing except the stock.
Check the hours before you leave, because half these kitchens close between
lunch and dinner. Then order the bowl the shop is known for before you start
improvising.
Start with our Convoy neighborhood guide
if you want several bowls in one district. For food after the ramen shops close,
use the late-night guide. For a cheaper dinner in
the same neighborhoods, go to the
cheap-eats list.